Friday, 9 July 2010

Betjeman's Banana Blush
is still available.Tthere are several for sale on eBay - eg: the link above.
Highly recommended!

Wednesday, 7 July 2010

A Disturbed Night - pt 2
After our adventure at 1.45 this morning the adrenalin was still flowing so that I could not get to sleep - hence the nighttime blogging. When I returned to bed and eventually to sleep I had a recurring dream stimulated by the evocative poem by John Betjeman about the first man to swim the channel unassisted - Captain Matthew Webb. I can't remember when he performed this feat but I do recall that his route was so erratic that he actually swam 39 miles which is equivalent to crossing the channel twice.

A Shropshire Lad

The gas was on in the Institute,
The flare was up in the gym,
A man was running a mineral line,
A lass was singing a hymn,
When Captain Webb the Dawley man,
Captain Webb from Dawley,
Came swimming along the old canal
That carried the bricks to Lawley,
Swimming along, swimming along,
Swimming along from Severn,
And paying a call at Dawley Bank
While swimming along to Heaven.

The sun shone low on the railway line
And over the bricks and stacks,
And in at the upstairs windows
Of the Dawley houses’ backs,
When we saw the ghost of Captain Webb,
Webb in a water sheeting,
Come dripping along in a bathing dress
To the Saturday evening meeting.
Dripping along, dripping along,
To the Congregational Hall;
Dripping and still he rose over the sill
And faded away in a wall.

There wasn’t a man in Oakengates
That hadn’t got hold of the tale,
And over the valley in Ironbridge,
And round by Coalbrookdale,
How Captain Webb the Dawley man,
Captain Webb from Dawley,
Rose rigid and dead from the old canal
That carried the bricks to Lawley,
Rigid and dead, rigid and dead,
To the Saturday congregation,
And paying a call at Dawley Bank
On his way to his destination
.

John Betjeman

The best way to appreciate this poem, as with all his others, is to listen to the great man reciting it. I believe this is still available on a CD recorded in the 1970s- Betjeman's Banana Blush - with musical accompaniament and is really enjoyable.

A Disturbed Night
About ten minutes ago I awoke to find myself alone in bed - she who must be obeyed was obeying the call of nature. Nothing unusual except - THUMP - she can't be making bread at this time of the night! To my call of is that you? a negative response was voiced. Having been woken by people on the roof trying to steal or throw things off on occasions in the past I was now wide awake and out of bed. I flung open the side hatch and yelled the pre-cursor to a tirade to turn the air blue - OI!
I was a little surprised when the response was not a pair of feet running down the towpath but a voice calling
"
Sorry mate, I fell in. "
"Well, if you fell in trying to steal my gear, enjoy the swim" I thought.
"What were you doing out at this time of night" is what I said.
"Walking the dog"
At which point I became aware of a dog on the bank seemingly unconcerned at the position of his master.
In earlier days one would have lit a candle and gone to assist the unfortunate nocturnal perambulater. Fortunately I took an electric torch as any naked flame would have caused an oral conflagration and went out in my PJs and Crocks. I am not sure what he had been drinking but it did not smell very appetising. The current water level appears to be about eight inches below normal which made it particularly difficult for the water wader to climb out and also prevented us from mooring up to the bank. So with guidance and light (sounds like a vicar) he was able to make his way to the stern, walking along between the boat and the bank ,where the emergency step is provided in the hull.
Back on shore he had to be guided along the broad and well surfaced path for fear of him returning to the cut. Had we not been awake for another reason we might not have appreciated the problem and been able to assist. If you had no scruples about making bad puns you could say that he was saved by the bowel.
To save embarrassment, no photos are being published.

Tuesday, 6 July 2010

Half Time
The Leeds & Liverpool Canal is the longest canal in Britain built by one company but it was not built in one go. The easy bit was done first - from Bingley to Skipton - which is lock free and this took about seven years. Construction then went from the sublime to the ridiculous with the stretch from Leeds to Bingley - staircases (3 x 2step, 4 x 3step and 1 x 5step) and swing bridges (too many). This was followed by Wigan to Liverpool and finally Wigan was linked to Skipton in 1816. The total length is 127 miles with 91 locks The locks on the Wigan-Leeds stretch are 60ft long and 14ft3ins wide to accommodate large load carrying barges and boats form Liverpool. For pleasure users today this can present problems as the predominant gauge on the narrow canals accepts boats up to 70ft long. The prime reason for constructing the canal was to service the Yorkshire wool and Lancashire cotton trades and, although beset by water supply problems from day one, it did not succumb to the competition from the railways until the 20th century.
At the mid point between Leeds and Liverpool is the village of Church which grey up around the calico printing works of Sir Robert Peel (that man again!). The guide books declare that there is a beautiful window in the church by Burne-Jones but we have never been able to gain access to view it. We passed through there on Sunday which should have been a good day to try but could not moor closer than 4ft from the bank due to the low water level. With a gale blowing to add to the problem we finally abandoned our attempts and continued cruising towards Blackburn.


To mark its position on the canal Church has erected a Half Way marker.




The next village of Rishton has also erected a mural to the canal.

Monday, 5 July 2010

Beauty & the Beasts
The Leeds & Liverpool Canal between Barrowford and Shipley passes through some lovely countryside - open moors and the sides of valleys. It is only spoilt by the frequent swing bridges. At times they occur every half mile and some are so difficult to move that two people are required to provide sufficient power. There is so little traffic that we seldom were in the position to share this work with another boat.




Rhodies near Snaygil
























Waiting for Greenbeerfield locks to open










Another beastly swing bridge!


Boo Dee's Curry Boat
After enjoying the England v Slovenia game on TV at The Old Swan in Gargrave we have an appointment to keep. BooDee's Curry Boat will be in East Marton tomorrow and we are keen to stock up with their home-made curries which they vacuum pack ready to boil in the bag. Boo lived in Thailand for some years and has brought some of the recipes she leaned out there to the Leeds & Liverpool Canal. They cruise between Foulridge and Skipton stopping wherever there is demand for their superb and good value fare. We recently tried the Chicken Jalfrezi with Chick Pea and Spinach. It was really good and did not smell the boat out as happens when we cook curries from scratch. Their website does not have a timetable or menu on it yet so we usually send them a txt to find out where they are. - 07540 053 763
To get to East Marton involves scaling three more of the Gargrave locks and all six of Bank Newton flight. As we approached the last of these we have to wait for a boat to descend first.


As the gates open I realise it is Kennet - the only Liverpool Short Boat which has not been converted for pleasure use.



Being 14ft wide and filling the lock some manoeuvring is required to get past each other but we manage without mishap.

Sunday, 4 July 2010

More NewZ from the Travel Diary.....
Mar 24 - Serendipity on the Road to Lumsden
It is true to say that the places we enjoyed most in our five weeks touring New Zealand were those no-one told us about or recommended us visit. Leaving our newly found friends in Dunedin we set off toward the west coast.
For morning coffee we stopped in Balclutha and while there took a look at this early example of ferro-concrete bridge construction. After coffee we discovered the town museum and what a gem this is. Packed to the rafters with real exhibits and only three Do not touch signs in the whole place. The curator spent the rest of the morning telling us about the various bridges (the current one is number three) over the Clutha River.


The previous incarnation can be seen alongside the current one in this photograph from the 1930s.





This must have been one of the earliest examples of ferro concrete being used in bridge construction.




Amongst this treasure trove of recent history I came across this Royal Bar-Lock typewriter with two keyboards. Manufactured in New York by the Columbia Typewriter Company around 1890 , the upper case letters are, appropriately, above the lower case keyboard.





My research has not been able to clarify the model number of this machine. It is very similar to the models 6 and 10 but has a longer space bar. Royal Bar-Lock was the name used for sales to Europe and the twin keyboard models were replaced by shift key versions in 1903.




We eventually tore ourselves away from this interesting town and progressed through Gore which was also an enjoyable stop for lunch.
Lumsden, however, we would quite happily have by-passed in hind sight.
Where? and When?
Before setting off from Reedley yesterday I rang British Waterways Wigan office to check on the current restrictions for passage through the flight of locks there. The lady who took my call asked me which canal the Wigan locks were on! She had only to look out of her window see the locks in question so where does she think she works?
Of all the errors on signs that we come across the one that annoys me most is the use of a.m. or p.m. after the time 12 o'clock. We learned at junior school what the abreviations stood for and that by definition 12 o'clock can neither be a.m. nor p.m - it must be noon or midnight. In an uncharacteristic act of generosity I will overlook the 12pm-midnight on this sign but sureley even the most inattentive schoolchild would realise that 12pm-8pm does not make sense if the pub closes at midnight.

Saturday, 3 July 2010

Gypsy!
Continuing our walk up Shipley Glen on Saturday last, we worked our way along the ridge until we heard the strains of There's Whiskey in the Jar wafting up from the valley.

Drawn as to the song of the sirens, we descended the hill and found ourselves in Baildon where there was a Gypsy Fair in progress.







The caravans on display were all fairly new but the workmanship was remarkable - outside and in.



























On this occasion I was permitted to photograph the young ladies. (I don't try to understand the reasoning behind these decisions by she who must be obeyed). - see Curry & Chicks June 12 blog

From here we walked back to Saltaire along the canal to join a guided walk around the village conducted by the imitable Maria Glot (and no, she does not have a sister named Polly)
There are many stories about the Saltaire community - how the hierarchy of employees was reflected in the property they were allowed to occupy, for example. This is challenged in a book soon to be published - Saltaire - the making of a model town by Jackson, Lintobon & Staples. However there does seem to be support for the idea that the village was self policing as there are watch-towers at strategic positions.


This house with a watch-tower is in the dead centre of the village. I tend toward the belief that self policing was assisted by the judicious allocation of houses so that each employee was not too many doors from their supervisor.

Thursday, 1 July 2010

Back to Square One
Two months ago we set off from Reedley Marina near Burnley where we had spent the winter (apart from two months down under). Since then we have cruised across the Pennines almost to Leeds and back. Now we are back whence we started. The most interesting places we have visited have been Barnoldswick (Barlick), Gargrave, Shipley, Saltaire, Skipton and, from a canal viewpoint, Bingley. Last weekend we were moored in Barlick but took ourselves off by bus and train to Saltaire (again) for the church fete and to Skipton for the Armed Forces Day parade.
Our first task in Saltaire was to walk up the hill on the south side of the valley to get this view of Salts Mill.
The hill behind the chimney in this picture is Shipley Glen which was popular with the Victorians for weekend visits and our next port of call.

On our way down one hill and up the other we passed a model of car I had not seen before. It looked rather like one of the minor europan manufacturers but turned out to be a Nissan Pao. Note the number plate - J55 PAO.




The Shipley Glen Tramway is a funicular running up the side of the hill but is no longer in running order. There are plans (aren't there always?) to restore it and recommence operations but we found little evidence of any work being done.